Day 22: Ha Tien to Kep: Coastal Cruising

Ha Tien to Kep

Distance: 40.9km

Total: 1168.3km 

Cambodian FOD: there is a legend that cats are thought to be too perfect. As only Budda can be perfect, cats tails are chopped off! I don’t know if it’s true but there are a lot of cats with no tails here!

Everyday Randomness: Literally cycling through sand:

A fry for breakfast. Not a sentence I thought I’d be writing! This place is infamous for its breakfast and after tasty it I know why. The owner of the Oasis bar goes to Cambodia to buy real sausages and rashers from a British butcher who operates there!! The rashers would rival ones that you get at home and the entire meal was thoroughly enjoyed! The tomatoes were both plump and juicy; a step above the soggy version one usually gets at home!

We had our final Vietnamese coffee before crossing the border into Cambodia. We had been convinced to go to Kep along the Cambodian coast instead of spending as long in Kampot. It was an easy decision because the views around here are the best we’ve had so an opportunity to see a few more was one that we willingly took.

We almost got drawn into a common scam on the Cambodian side where they bring you into qaurantine for a “health check”. The form they get you to fill out is surprisingly official looking but once he started telling us to go over to the temperature sensor and with that we said thanks but we don’t need that, took our passports and walked out! Thankfully that was the only hassle we got and we were on our way in search of salt fields and the coast road.

One of the locals in the Oasis bar had told us how to find the coast road because the road wasn’t on open street maps and I can understand why! We turned onto a fairly standard Cambodian dirt track and literally battled through the head wind until we took a turn and saw these kids in the salt fields:

From there the road was sheltered by trees and we returned to a more acceptable pace. 

We found ourselves at the coast, and an expansive view fairly quickly:

From here, the “road” we were  supposed to take became quite ambiguous. Fortunately, the destination name of Kep is pretty easy to say so many locals pointing us in the right way as we traversed, sometimes by walking, to the coast road. It was some adventure!!

It was great to be on an actual road of sorts but we were seriously exposed to the unconstrained winds! We knew we were doing a short day on the bike so we were relaxed about going half the pace we would usually but it was tough enough going! There was randomly a massive horse statue which is beyond odd considering we haven’t seen an actual horse over here! 

The coast road joined with the main road which was empty besides tuk tuks transporting tourists to see the Crab statue (yes the tree does indicate wind strength):

We sailed along the smoothest surface we had all day into Kep’s main attraction: the crab market. We shared an enormous plate of crab while having the most spectacular views of the Gulf of Thailand. The crab was absolutely delicious in and of itself but the satay style green pepper sauce was also superb. Entertainment was provided by this fellow smacking the sea like there was no tomorrow! Apparently, it’s some form of fishing…!

We cycled out to our bungalow accomodation, the Rusty Keyhole! It is a beautiful spot in the middle of the grassy hills, with comfy chairs and a relaxed, friendly French owner.

After a beautiful sunset we decided to order a local dish (pepper and seafood of course) and their own speciality which is ribs! The seafood dish had a nice but subtle flavour and I’m not quite accustomed to eating about 100 whole peppercorns! The ribs, though lacking in actual rib none were scrumptious and there was plenty to go around as well! Served with a particularly good coleslaw! Looking forward to pancakes in the morning!

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